Eileen Fisher feature

- When and why did you start your business?  

I opened the books for nykamping in January of 2023, with a fresh website & dreams of a small batch sidegig. In April, a commercial space opened two blocks from my apartment so my 3 year dream became a reality four months in. The shop's doors opened to the public at the end of June, with 66 of my pieces – most of which were unique housecoats & tote bags. A year later, I still mostly focus on comfortable outerwear & bags but have expanded into modern, simple tops & pants. in 2020, when I started sewing garments, the dream was to make the ideal housecoat: drop shoulders, extra long sleeves for rolled cuffs, massive chore pockets & all made from unique secondhand textiles. That design has & will remain a staple for nykamping – a tent for your body.

- How has starting your business empowered you and your community?  

Most of my time in the shop during open hours is spent in conversation with customers. Somewhat unexpectedly, the clothes have become this vessel for empowering heart-to-hearts. "I'm not cool enough to wear that," or, "This makes me look fat," are some of the statements I regularly hear. "Let's talk about why you think that," is my response. After a few minutes we always get to the same conclusions together: "Wearing what excites you or shows off your personality has nothing to do with being cool," & "Looking or being fat is not a negative thing." Speaking these realities gives me boosts of confidence to continue dressing how I like, mostly in non-flattering oversized shapes with funky visual interest. I've had customers reassess their fashion mindset, acknowledge fatfobia, tell themselves in the mirror how cool they look & tear up. I wish people could look in the mirror & see themselves how I see them. Like many artists, I'm not a salesman; however, I understand & can communicate the power of fashion & how special clothing can make us feel. 

- What is your favorite and most challenging part of the design process?  

My favorite & most challenging parts of garment design are the same. Because I'm self-taught with a degree from YouTube & Pinterest, there are a lot of construction techniques that are missing from my mental toolbox. Other designers were taught, modeled & given classroom time to practice all the solutions for solving design hurdles. It takes me longer to problem solve, but it's my favorite part of the design process. I also love not being constrained by textbook construction methods but finding what works best for my niche. 

- Why was it important for you to incorporate circularity and sustainability values in your business? 

I didn't even know how to open a retail business any other way. Sustainability & ethics built the foundation of nykamping, with a goal to take every aspect to the nth degree. Every piece would be priced as wearable art, so I could be ethically paid. Textiles would be exclusively sourced secondhand locally, as a grassroots effort to reduce textile waste in my own community. Word traveled in this small town & it wasn't long before locals were bringing me heirloom quilts with a stain or distressing, but didn't have the heart to throw away. I feel like a contributing member of my society, providing a solution to a problem while creating unique wearable art.

- What is an accomplishment you are most proud of?  

It will be my upcoming collection, "Summer Solstice," released at my first solo fashion show next week. Quite frightening to have one of my biggest accomplishments be so close on the horizon but I know it will be a beautiful experience & worth the last several months of late nights in the studio. 

- What changes do you want to see in the industry to make it a more inclusive place?  

Larger pockets in women's pants.

Conscious consumers have been demanding expanded size ranges & representative models for years. Thankfully, it's no longer acceptable for a brand to exclusively carry S-M-L & have a homogeneously white model team. I've noticed a positive shift towards brands signing more & more gender nonconforming & racially ambiguous models, which feels like an inclusive & societally reflective direction. Consumers along the gender, racial & sizing spectrums can see themselves represented: an effective–if not foundationally basic–marketing strategy & a no-brainer for our current world in 2024.

Social media exhibits the tide shifting, specifically for cisgendered men influencing the virtual world of streetwear fashion. Recorded & posted lightbulb moments about the discovery of womenswear on male bodies evoke a sigh in me, alongside real excitement for the future of menswear. Gay men consistently predict menswear trends 5-10 years ahead of time; we've been hacking shirts into crop tops & buying women's pants since forever. Traditionally feminine brands have begun introducing male models into product shoots, realizing they've limited their following & sales purely by targeting a single gender. Part of what I'd love to see is men being unashamed by purchasing & wearing "women's clothing," mostly because the reverse has been true, without worry of judgment. While the industry continues pivoting with society, I'm hoping & expecting to see more genderless categorizing as companies realize they've unintentionally discouraged an expansive possible target audience. 

It was the first thing I noticed on Eileen Fisher's website. While the models are all women presenting, the clothes aren't blatantly titled as womenswear. As a man who would wear several styles from Eileen Fisher, there aren't words & labeling to dissuade me from feeling like I may be included in the target audience. Among the website's organization & cohesive photography, I appreciated the header's gender neutrality.

- What is your auto pilot outfit?  

Something easy & breezy, so a flowy linen look is my main go-to. Billowy wide leg or lantern linen pants with a tucked in oversized linen short sleeve button down always feels comfortable, versatile & ready for anything. Since I'm constantly moving in the studio between sewing machines & helping customers, I need to sashay about in style & comfort. I rotate through my personal nykamping jackets & add them onto the base linen layer. For footwear, I cycle between multiple styles of Birkenstock & Sabah.

- How do you plan to celebrate Pride this year? 

My mini collection for Pride releases in a Traverse City gallery this weekend, with several other queer artists showcasing their work. A few of us are joining local queer elders in a Q&A panel. I probably need a night of dancing at the local gay club one of these upcoming weekends to celebrate. Twist my arm!

- Is there an organization that you feel is important to highlight during Pride month? 

Living in a quaint town, I like to focus on organizations that are doing big things in my home community. Traverse City's Up North Pride is a small but mighty team that has single-handedly provided northern Michigan with LGBTQ+ focused events during Pride & throughout the year. They host & plan drag brunches, artist residencies, drag bingo, silent discos, a pride baseball night, rainbow dinners, rainbow runs, & queer art exhibitions – my work is included in the show, along with a Q&A that I'm a part of. Up North Pride is actively investing in LGBTQ+ people of northern Michigan & I feel the benefits directly.